What it’s like to go to Egypt as a transgender traveller

As a baby, I used to be fascinated by the tradition of historic Egypt – papyrus scrolls, King Tut and the tombs pharaohs have been buried in for eternal life. Flicking by the pages of the Nationwide Geographic Egypt e book my mom gave me impressed my curiosity about what appeared like one other world.  

Not too long ago, my final bucket checklist journey turned a actuality. Visiting Egypt – my first journey to the African continent – reignited my childlike surprise for the primary time in many years. It nonetheless feels surreal to say that I’ve lastly skilled the Motherland. 

Dealing with my fears 

When Intrepid invited me and a few of my transgender and physique positivity advocate friends to hitch a tour of our selecting, the stress was on. It felt like a as soon as in a lifetime proposal, and whereas I explored all of the choices – Antarctica, Southeast Asia, Vietnam, locations I’ve dreamed of going for years – Egypt saved resurfacing in my thoughts.  

And but, I stubbornly thought to myself – if not now, then when? 

As a visual transgender human rights advocate, I’m used to travelling to locations the place political and social attitudes in direction of transgender and queer individuals differ. However on this occasion, the considered travelling for leisure, slightly than advocacy work, as a Black trans girl, to a rustic with quite a few anti-LGBTQ+ legal guidelines and attitudes, offered a quiet worry that I couldn’t shake. 

It’s unlawful to be transgender or gay in Egypt and the nation has been shunned by human rights advocacy teams world wide for its aggressive transphobic and homophobic legislation enforcement.  

And but, I stubbornly thought to myself – if not now, then when?  


Eye-opening adventures 

In late 2022 I landed in Cairo prepared for an ‘Indiana Jones’ type Premium Egypt journey. I knew that Intrepid prides itself on its group journey experiences that absorb all of the highlights whereas additionally encouraging you to get to know the native individuals and tradition on a deeper degree – and I discovered that it lives as much as that goal in so some ways. 

I’d by no means finished group journey earlier than and didn’t fairly know what to anticipate. However I quickly realised I used to be surrounded by like-minded travellers from world wide who shared most of the identical aspirations for his or her first tour of Egypt as I did.  

Our first journey? Seeing the Nice Pyramids at dawn. From there we adventured by camel, ate kushari (a tasty combination of pasta, rice, lentils and fried onions) with locals at a avenue meals restaurant, toured museums full of historic artifacts and had cocktails by the pool at our lodge, studying extra about one another and our components of the world. We went on to go to the spice markets in Aswan, tour the Nile by riverboat, journey a felucca to the Nubian villages and scorching air balloon over the Valley of Kings collectively (I’d encourage everybody to participate within the latter – even in case you’re afraid of heights like me!).  

A particular second that stays with me is seeing the hieroglyphs and representations of Hatshepsut, a visibly gender nonconforming pharaoh. Seeing your self represented in historical past – particularly as each a Black individual and a trans girl – is phenomenal.



Ideas for visiting Egypt as a plus-size LGBTQ+ traveller 

As an LGBTQ+ traveller, your private security is at all times in your thoughts – that’s the truth. Daring as I could also be, I’ve to stability being visibly transgender whereas additionally being respectful of the land I’m visiting, its individuals and its customs.  

Listed here are some steps you may take to make sure you have a superb expertise.  

Journey with a bunch 

When you’re LGBTQ+ and resolve to go to Egypt, travelling on an organised group tour may help scale back any anxieties you could have. I spoke to Intrepid employees prematurely they usually took my security considerations into cautious consideration, working behind the scenes with airline, transportation and lodge employees to make sure I had the most effective journey doable. 

To be sincere, I used to be anticipating a white, cis, male, British chief however was pleasantly stunned to be taught that Intrepid hires native individuals wherever doable. I felt further comfy travelling with chief Eman, a neighborhood Egyptologist and feminist Muslim girl who’s blazing a path in a male-dominated trade. 

Concentrate on native legal guidelines and customs 

It’s vital to think about native legal guidelines and customs. For instance, in locations like Aswan and Luxor, ladies don’t smoke in public. Males don’t share lodge rooms, and girls gown modestly even within the excessive desert warmth. Sure, guidelines and attitudes are extra versatile for vacationers, however I additionally suppose following native customs and values wherever doable is an indication of respect.  

My sisters Diamond and Breonna struggled with the modest gown codes, however they tailored and typically individuals appreciated that we have been making an attempt. I believe that is why, whether or not they knew it or not, individuals engaged the three of us – all Black, American, transgender ladies – in dialog, which I believe can solely assist to shift perceptions of trans individuals general, simply by advantage of us making somewhat effort. 

Go at your individual tempo 

As a plus-size traveller, touring historic temples and websites within the warmth might be bodily gruelling. There have been of us in my group who do CrossFit and marathons and even they have been wiped by the top of every day. You’ll be doing a number of strolling, scrambling over rocks and squeezing into tight areas – so gauge what you are able to do and modify accordingly. 

For me, generally that meant staying behind because the group crawled on all fours to get right into a tiny tomb. In the future, I skipped a temple go to to remain in my room and relaxation. You’re the guardian of your care, and I’m proud I pushed myself to maintain up with the group as a lot as I might, climbing out and in of feluccas and mountain climbing hills to the villages. I took care of myself at any time when I felt I had reached my restrict and communicated with my information when and the place I would want to change.  

On the finish of the day, everybody desires what you need: a great time and a memorable journey. Additionally, Egypt shouldn’t be a spot for cute footwear (belief me, I ruined a pair of designer sandals). Sacrifice your must match your outfit together with your footwear in favour of tennis footwear with assist – you gained’t remorse it.