Sustainability isn’t a buzzword in Slovenia; it’s a lifestyle. And whereas many people ponder exactly what meaning, the Slovenians are tending to their beehives, sipping on recent wines from native cellars and devouring scrumptious cheeses at household farms, often accompanied by a heart-warming grin.
Welcome to the Vipava Valley, a foodie ecotourism utopia served up with a degustation of luscious landscapes, journey actions and classic villages, all washed down from the barrels of an underground world.
Actually, a lot of the valley is invisible at floor zero the locals joke concerning the majority of their houses being underground. Most individuals right here don’t go to a co-op cellar to get their fermented grape juice; they pop downstairs to their very own.
In Vipava, Rainbows don’t result in pots of gold however to vineyards
Vipava’s eco-conscious menu is intensive. From free electrical automobile charging stations to take advantage of merchandising machines and refilling wine bottles at native cellars. There’s even a wine practice which is able to take you hopping between little villages and vineyards. And with practically each village within the valley boasting its personal pure spring, you possibly can see why turning the dialog from water to wine is crucial. Particularly after sampling just a few glasses of the very palatable native Zelen grape.
Throughout the valley, idyllic, undersized villages of white-washed church buildings and stone-clad homes unfurl. Vines dangle above balconies and terraces to offer a pure barrier to the mid-day solar. Canine lazily stretch out whereas homeowners are likely to their grapes or craft meticulous dishes in kitchens. I’d barely been in Vipava Valley an hour earlier than my first encounter with one of many numerous family-run eating places. Down a bit facet alley, I settled right into a walled backyard for my first style of Vipava Valley hospitality.
Cejkotova Domačija, family-hosted eating at its finest
Historic hospitality at Cejkotova Domačija
Arriving at Cejkotova Domačija in Goče was like unwrapping a shock present on Christmas morning. This sleepy little village – the oldest in Slovenia – is someplace you’ll simply skip for those who weren’t within the know. However at this historic household residence with only a handful of tables on the patio, I used to be about to find precisely why this a part of Slovenia is certainly one of Europe’s foodie utopias.
Davorin, a well-built chap with a broad grin, welcomed me with a pleasant handshake. Ushering me round his residence like a long-lost buddy, he handed me black-and-white pictures of what his home was as soon as like. Though, to my eyes, it’s comparatively unchanged. Settling into the bowl-like chairs, the solar flickered by the vines, glistening towards the do-it-yourself wine tumbling into the glass.
A sampling appetiser at Cejkotova Domačija
Every course of native cheeses, cured meats and baked delicacies was extra mouth-watering than the final. Popping my head into the standard kitchen to see the place this heavenly goodness was coming from, the smiling faces of a mom and daughter staff greeted me. Davorin’s daughter was coaching to be a pastry chef, one thing she knowledgeable me whereas delivering a superbly mild cream tart to the desk. Being so near the Italian border, the delicacies hovers between mild Mediterranean and Jap European influences.
The situation supplies extra than simply meals similarities. Greater than as soon as over the next days, I’d gawp in awe on the rolling hills of vineyards and declare it was identical to the Italy you see within the motion pictures. I used to be half anticipating a Vespa full with a shawl-trailing Jennifer Coolidge to leisurely velocity on by.
Lunch was rounded off with a visit right down to the household’s cellar. The mild flicker of candlelight guided us because the wine was lifted straight from barrels. It’s a given you would wish a reservation to get pleasure from such a private and intimate meal, so take this as a heads-up to e-book prematurely.
Sluggish journey begins in Stanjel
Earlier than coming into the Vipava Valley correct, Stanjel, the oldest settlement within the Karst space, will greet you. With a major place and a fortified fort courting again to Roman instances, it affords a primary peek into the valley from its vantage factors.
The Sixteenth-century fort and the homes of the village, which had been prolonged after the Turkish invasions stopped, had been destroyed in each world wars. You wouldn’t understand it had endured such tragic injury with out getting the debrief within the pleasant vacationer workplace, because of a painstaking restoration undertaking.
Stanjel, simply exterior the valley
Stanjel could also be petite in measurement, however that’s all a part of its allure. Honey from native beehives is balanced on windowsills and offered on a belief system, with a small variety of residents and vacationers depositing their cash into vibrant flower pots held on partitions. Strolling the tight streets of Stanjel, the place beforehand closed-off houses had been having fun with a brand new lease of life as lodging, is the right introduction to the eagerness and satisfaction you’ll encounter all through a go to.
It turned clear over the approaching days that a number of youth who had moved on to larger cities chasing alternatives had been now returning to their homeland. “What do we now have left if we don’t have traditions?” Jani, my information, contemplated with satisfaction whereas personally recounting the story of beginning his enterprise.
Slowly, the key has slipped out about this gorgeous Slovenian retreat, creating extra alternatives for brand spanking new enterprise. Entrepreneurial souls wanting to maneuver again to their native villages have pounced on these alternatives in tourism, agriculture and native natural produce.
Every household I’d meet throughout my keep had a unique story that they had been excited to share, making exploring this area so enchanting. It was by no means time to attend simply one other wine tasting or meal. It was as an alternative time to befriend a brand new stranger, to listen to private tales, and to share delicacies and drops of wine of their residence like long-lost household.
My keep within the Vipava Valley wasn’t simply feeding my abdomen; it was feeding my soul with household ties and unending tales of ardour above revenue. I’d stepped again in time a bit. To a world the place group got here earlier than firms.
Checking into Majerija, a storied keep
Preserving the tradition and staying sustainable extends past the menu in Vipava, one thing I found upon checking into the family-run restaurant-come-hotel that’s Majerija.
Flanked by herb gardens for the kitchen, lavender crops abuzz with bees, and located within the coronary heart of the valley, the property didn’t appear sufficiently big to carry the variety of boutique rooms it boasted. However, as with a lot of Vipava, the reply was hiding underground.
The Majerija Home was initially inbuilt 1700 and steadily expanded to incorporate outhouses for wine manufacturing and stables earlier than being offered by the Depend who owned it. To chop the story brief, finally, it handed out of the unique household’s fingers and was introduced by the present homeowners.
The lavender gardens of Majerija
Being a cultural monument, the constructing needed to be preserved, and a gradual but stunning undertaking endured, which noticed the restaurant open 12 years after refurbishment began. With no room so as to add lodging and the outside of the constructing protected, a artistic undertaking noticed fashionable underground rooms constructed with skylights and particular person touches.
The restaurant serves scrumptious meals and wine, all regionally sourced, with each day market journeys to assemble each breakfast and dinner elements. Rooms present an ideal escape into an underground bolt-hole, and naturally, a well-stocked wine cellar completes the bundle.
Adventures carried by winds
For these eager to sort out a extra adventurous facet to the valley, Mom Nature has labored her magic to maintain you entertained.
Whereas biking between villages and vineyards is perhaps sufficient train to permit for one more guilt-free tasting menu, the towering mountains and well-known Burja wind – the native identify for the gales that typically blast by the valley – additionally present ample alternatives to embrace nature.
Sundown breaking over the Vipava Valley
I point out the wind as a result of, by the tip of your Vipava Valley go to, you’ll regard it as a buddy on a first-name foundation, not a pure phenomenon. The Burja wind is to thank for a lot of the distinctive wine-producing local weather, and with gusts typically coming in at over 200km, Jani joked with me one night that the locals say: “When you’ve got issues, simply exit, and Burja blows all of your issues away.”
However how does this wind render itself to the adventurous? Paragliding. This small nook of Slovenia is known for these eager to fly by the air, and I can solely think about a birds-eye view of this unimaginable panorama, with the coast, Italy, and Croatia in your peripherals, could be chic for those who don’t endure from vertigo like myself.
Jani, my information and proprietor of Wajdusna excursions
On a barely chilly morning, armed with a flask of Jani’s home-brewed tea, we ventured to the peaks to catch the solar breaking.
This man knew the valley just like the again of his hand. As we sipped, awaiting the dawn, he informed me about how his start-up firm Wajdusna, had blossomed lately, providing a mixture of day journeys, excursions, and full journey itineraries within the Vipava Valley. Whether or not you need an activity-laden tour or a lazy bike journey between wineries, I can’t suggest this man extremely sufficient that can assist you make this occur.
The rays casting by the clouds marked one other day of wine-tasting and storytelling, however a hearty hike by well-marked tracks, grazing cows and taking within the pure body of Vipava Valley, the Otlica Window, was the right morning exercise. The huge karst panorama that hugs Vipava is right for strapping on boots, pumping up the tyres of a mountain bike or taking to the skies with the assistance of the Burja.
Lovely roads within the Vipava Valley of Slovenia
Farm-to-fork turret eating in Faladur
The historical past of Ajdovščina is clear the second you stroll by the outdated metropolis partitions topped with turrets. Actually, certainly one of these watchtowers was the very cause we had been right here.
5 years in the past, Matej based Faladur, which began as a neighborhood produce retailer constructed into certainly one of these turrets. What started as a store with a ardour for promoting the most effective of Vipava slowly blossomed into tastings, snacks after which a restaurant.
Studying from Ljubljana, the nation capital’s profitable pedestrianisation undertaking, Ajdovščina adopted swimsuit to cut back automobile visitors. Now, the handful of tables bask within the superb sunshine in addition to the lovable inside. Nevertheless, the variety of tables is purposefully stored low to make sure service and private suggestions may be delivered. This meal wasn’t only for consumption; it was a mini grasp class in native gastronomy and vinification.
Sinking my tooth right into a scrumptious vegetarian salad of inexperienced beans with delicate seasoning and fresh-cut salmon, the small staff labored diligently within the open-plan kitchen. Locals nipped in to refill 5-litre bottles with wine or to select up olive oil, and by the point my favorite dish arrived, polenta with pancetta, quail eggs and uncooked garlic, I but once more felt like a buddy in his residence.
Hospitality is one factor they’ve in extra right here in Vipava, and accompanied by the craft beer of Ajdovščina, a visitor providing on the day’s tasting menu, each chew and sip was scrumptious.
The turrets and partitions of Ajdovščina
Discovering artwork and group ahigh at Penzion Sinji Vrh
On the higher a part of the Vipava Valley, a diffusion of cured meats and cheese awaits once you arrive at Sinji Vrh. That’s after you’ve managed to wrestle your eyes away from the aerial views.
Surrounded by forest trails and at an elevation of 1000 metres, this retreat is far more than a restaurant serving scrumptious dishes. Right here a number of lodging and workshops happen and it has develop into nicely often known as an artist escape for a lot of within the know sorts throughout the continent.
You possibly can draw inspiration from the farm, sleep in massive group lodging or a primary and typical stone home after which paint, draw or create to your coronary heart’s content material with surroundings and fellow artists as your companions and inspiration.
Pasji Rep’s ardour for Zelen
The well-known and native grape of Zelen makes for a crisp, refreshing wine that may solely be discovered within the Vipava Valley. At Pasji Rep, the place 4 generations of wine manufacturing have centered on this indigenous grape, you possibly can pattern it each from the cellar or the tasting room and, if fortunate, the Merlot that’s solely produced throughout particularly good vintages.
The prized grape of Zelen practically disappeared, with solely two acres of the vine left at one level. Franc, the daddy and his buddy got down to replant and regrow the grape, which now produces round 150,000 litres per yr.
The Pasji Rep model is one with historical past, satisfaction, and tales of not giving up. Whether or not you be part of a tasting with Franc or his son, you’ll rapidly realise how a lot effort this household has put into preserving this boutique wine.
Opening a bottle with the household at Lepa Vida
As the primary cork was eliminated at Lepa Vipa Vineyard, Mattia paused pouring to alert Alena, his spouse, to a tiny fowl attempting to entry their barn. As she steps out to slip open the good door, Mattia explains typically their flying associates want a hand accessing the birdhouse they’ve constructed. The group in Vipava Valley isn’t nearly people; it’s about nature residing in concord.
“Individuals within the village come to assist choose the grapes; everybody helps one another out, particularly for harvest. A group for us is with household and associates:” Mattia chitchats whereas loading the desk with extra mouth-tingling treats from his buddy’s companies and farms. Alena continues telling me about their two youngsters as he disappears again into the kitchen.
It’s conferences like these that put you comfy. I believed again to my first go to to Slovenia six years prior once I left declaring Ljubljana the cutest and probably the most pleasant capital metropolis I had ever visited and was reminded of the moments then and now, which make Slovenia such a particular place once I recount my journey tales.
The Lepa Vida winery expanded throughout six totally different areas because the plots had been cut up through the Austro-Hungarian empire. The distinctive terrain, well-known wind, and separate plots create microclimates right here, which support in wine manufacturing. I heard locals say greater than as soon as that snow is measured in hours, not centimetres, in Vipava, which supplies you an concept of how rapidly the local weather can fluctuate.
The enterprise is a younger child within the wine commerce, having solely opened in June 2017. Mattia and Alena met in Australia and wished to create a spot the place they may share tales and wine with friends, though wine manufacturing was by no means their major background. From the seed of an concept and a newly constructed tasting room, Lepa Vida was born.
Listening to how their love story had develop into the wine we had been sipping, I couldn’t assist however really feel greater than a bit jealous of the gorgeous life that they had constructed right here at residence as I sampled the distinctive orange wine from their equally distinctive bottle designs.
Tenting and nice eating mixed at Saksida
By now, I’ll admit I used to be a bit tipsy and prepared for a degustation dinner, however pulling into the campsite of Vina Saksida. I used to be a bit confused, although I knew to not be involved after the entire surprises I had encountered to date.
Sure, this was a campsite providing tent pitches alongside a swimming pool, however as I had grown accustomed to by now, there was additionally a wine cellar, there was wine manufacturing, and the restaurant was, in fact, going to be each scrumptious and classy.
The dishes and wine-pairing flowed with ease because the family-produced wines washed down dishes starting from deconstructed stews in take a look at tubes to tender pork cheeks in wealthy sauces. “That is home-cooking and native dishes as our grandmothers used to do”, I used to be informed, struggling to consider that every one the grandmothers in Vipava hadn’t been Michelin-starred cooks.
As an exquisite sundown light into the vineyards, extra dishes from the intensive menu arrived, and for the primary time in a very long time, I felt full and utter leisure and contentment. If you wish to escape to the great life, Vipava Valley is the place you possibly can.
Wandering round Vipava
Given the identify of the Valley, you would possibly assume that Vipava itself could be the most important city, however this quaint spot doesn’t lay declare to that title.
Wandering by the vintage-washed buildings, the place cafes and bars spill out into shaded gardens or exterior bars sit alongside rivers so nonetheless they appear like mirrors, make this an excellent pre-dinner drink spot or a spot to dine, although actually don’t make a beeline right here anticipating it to be the principle buzz of the valley.
Vipavski Križ, a walled village
Walled historical past at Vipavski Križ
With so many villages to select from throughout your Vipava Valley go to, it may be onerous to slender down, however I extremely suggest taking a guided tour by the Fifteenth-century village of Vipavski Križ.
Located on an outdated commerce route which has seen Ottomans traversing its paths, the fortified partitions of the fort now lay fairly devoid of individuals inside, a lot so you possibly can choose up a derelict home right here for only a euro, offering you place within the restoration effort.
That’s to not say it’s all in disrepair in any respect, with many charming homes and buildings having been restored alongside these cobbled streets. A singular flooring system of various colors highlights the place royalty and influential folks had been separated from the working class who lived inside.
After all, like all good tour within the Vipava Valley, we ended up in an underground cellar sampling wines earlier than hitting up the well-stocked native retailer filled with bespoke goodies and Vipava-produced gins the place Mirjana, the proprietor, gleefully walked me by all of the treats in her store-come-cafe.
A Michelin-starred finale at Gostilna Pri Lojzetu – Citadel Zemono
Jani had saved the most effective until final, and as we drove into Citadel Zemono, with a major place and gorgeous views throughout the valley each through the day and for sundown, I used to be captivated by the charming Villa that was now a restaurant.
A bit of incontrovertible fact that stunned me all through my go to is that Slovenia is devoid of a Michelin star, which appeared loopy given how a lot ardour goes into each the meals and repair right here. After the unimaginable meal that was to observe by, served up by Tomaž Kavčič, undoubtedly among the best and most well-known cooks within the nation, I used to be satisfied this place deserved a minimum of one, if not two.
At Gostilna Pri Lojzetu, I used to be welcomed in probably the most pleasant of the way. Coming from a high-end restaurant background, I want relaxed eating places, and the welcome right here consisted of a small bottle of wine and a diffusion of thick soup and baguette on the desk. You sip the wine from the bottle, tear the bread aside to mop up the soup and immediately, as meant, you’re feeling at residence quite than in an uptight restaurant.
The philosophies of Tomaž are simply these. Culinary genes have run within the household for 3 generations, from his mom to his daughter who now works right here. The restaurant has moved from small, conventional, and humble beginnings into this world-class venue, which frequently hosts weddings and is extremely considered one of many prime eating places within the nation.
Whereas the wine cellar is nicely stocked with over 800 wines and champagnes from around the globe, the degustation menu I devoured stayed true to kind and was accompanied by native Slovenian wines solely.
The dishes that adopted had been an actual journey of the senses. In a non-ridiculous manner, completely cooked fish stacked on rock-hard salt was accompanied by a finger bowl of rocks to amplify the fish’s homeland. Anchovies, which I detest, had been so moist I wished extra, with the black cuttlefish shavings on prime perfecting the flavours.
Every dish outdid the final and by the point a Gin and Tonic sorbet rounded off the meal, full with dry ice and herb infusions floating throughout the desk I used to be satisfied I’d by no means have a greater meal once more. Surprisingly, Tomaž had discovered the time lately to create his personal Gin, recent again with a gold award from the USA Spirit Society.
I took my ultimate sip of Zelend, gazing out on the mountains, the final solar rays of the day dancing on white church spires, and I began grinning. I don’t bear in mind a time in my grownup life once I had felt this relaxed, this well-fed or this completely satisfied to have been within the firm of so many welcoming strangers.
My time in Vipava Valley had left me filled with bespoke wines and noteworthy meals, however extra importantly, filled with heartwarming reminiscences. Vipava Valley isn’t only a foodie vacation spot; it’s a feel-good vacation spot. And I elevate a glass to anybody who stumbles upon this Slovenian secret, promising you this: you might be in for a deal with!
Make it occur
Learn how to get to the Vipava Valley: Each trains and buses run from Ljubljana, the place worldwide flights additionally join. Trieste in Italy can also be shut by, whereas Venice affords higher flight connections for many, and switch can then be used to Vipava Valley.
Excursions, actions and wine tastings: Attain out to Jani at Wajdusna
Sleeping: Rooms at Majerija begin from 73 euros + vacationer tax for single use whereas campsite pitches, camper parking, and hut lodging can be found at Saksida